By Andrew Sussman
It sounded like an adventure – eight days spent exploring the Alsace region of France, on foot and self-guided. But as we hiked through acres of vineyards, beautiful forests, and enchanting storybook towns, it was evident from the start that this would be all that and more; one of the most memorable vacations I had ever had.
While I have travelled extensively throughout the world, this is a trip I never would have contemplated without the knowledgeable prompting of Amanda Loudon! ATG (Alternative Travel Group) literally did all the heavy lifting. They carried our luggage, picking it up each morning and transporting it to the next hotel. The hotel choices were excellent, all included a delicious breakfast and some even included dinner, and it was a relief to have those details handled and know that our destination would be a special treat to look forward to. The ATG route booklet provides two hiking options for each day; a longer “high route” or shorter “low route”, depending on your energy level and number of hours one wants to spend hiking. Each option offers unique places to explore such as castles, churches, magnificent views, a falconry, butterfly farm, vineyards, and picturesque towns, so there really is no wrong choice to make.
Alsace is one of the most photogenic regions in the world, so be sure to bring your cameras and have lots of storage for photos! It seemed that every time I turned around there was something beautiful to capture, a painting in the waiting. Walking through the colorful towns made me feel as though I was living in a fairytale.
The ATG routes are well organized and detailed, guiding us along small and sometimes poorly marked trails through farms and vineyards and backyards, crisscrossing the land in a manner we never would have been able to witness without their help. We travelled in September, and the weather was perfect for hiking, with the added benefit of us being able to watch the grapes being harvested as we walked. The guide booklet also includes a history of the region, information about the geology, flora and fauna, climate, food, wine, and of course details about each of the destinations and attractions along the routes.
Speaking of food and wine – WOW! The choices are abundant, delicious, and different enough from our usual cuisine that they were exciting to discover. Lucky we were hiking every day and thus managed to keep our weight down!
The hikes were so well planned, and I loved discovering the history of the area! While there is evidence of human settlement in Alsace dating back to 1,500 BC, the recorded history starts with the arrival of the Romans in 58 BC, driving the native Germanic tribes out and across the Rhine. Over the ensuing centuries, it was passed through conquest back and forth between Germany and France, moving through the Thirty Years’ War, the Franco-Prussian War, and two World Wars. All this change and associated tragedy has made this region a unique and interesting destination. As these historic influences converge, it is fascinating to witness the outcome and effects it has had on their culture, architecture, lifestyle, and customs.
Each day brought new revelations and discoveries. The people we encountered were consistently warm, friendly, and helpful, always eager to share their knowledge and traditions. Listing the highlights is difficult – in hindsight everything seems a highlight!
We got our bearings in Obernai, marveling at the medieval Place du Marche, the town walls dating from the 13th century, the numerous restaurants and wide variety of shops, and the Kappellturm Bellfry behind the Town Hall.
During the week we visited so many villages and vineyards, steeped in color, each more beautiful than the last. Just a few of the of the highlights:
Itterswiller (where we caught our first sight of the famed white storks which call this area home, perched in their enormous nests atop the highest historic buildings in town – an unforgettable sight!), Dambach La Ville, the historic Chateau Bernstein, St. Hippolyte, the beautifully restored Castle of Haut Koenigsbourg, Bergheim (charming and very few tourists), Ribeauville (awarded a 4-star “Village Fleuris” for its breathtaking floral displays), Riquewihr (recognized as one of the most beautiful villages in France). In Lapoutroie we visited the surprisingly comprehensive Musee des Eaux de Vie (Museum of the Waters of Life) which houses an impressive collection of items related to distilled spirits, met the owner, and sampled Absinthe distilled right across the street). We ended our adventure in Kayserberg, where the Albert Schweitzer Museum commemorates the birthplace and life of the town’s Nobel Peace Prize winner and most famous son.
Throughout the trip, we sampled fine wines from several small vineyards, often meeting the owners and learning about their traditions and families. We marveled at the historic carousels which center so many towns, enjoyed the lush forests, and ambled past farms and vineyards, occasionally stopping for homemade ice cream or coffee or beer. We breakfasted on delicious croissants, fruits, and a magnificent selection of cheeses, and prepared picnic lunches with purchases from the local bakeries and food shops.
At the end, we completed our trip feeling fit, enlightened, and energized. Thank you, Amanda, for your inspiration and guidance and ATG for the expert preparation and attention! I can only hope I get an opportunity to try another of ATG’s Footloose walks soon!
